In a trick of the imagination, the ingredients assembled for a King of France are being brought together again in a cuisine demanding labor, experience and a sense of the world brought to the kitchen door by farmers and ranchers.  The scene is not much different than it was 300 years ago.

A fire roasts a venison. Above it, a traditional cassoulet becomes encrusted by heat, and once again must be patted down (it is said it must be done seven times before end of cooking). A pheasant has been stuffed with mushrooms and thyme. A duck is pressed for confit, and Guinea Hens emit a fragrance of herbs and cognac, as they are pulled from the oven.

The chef looks over his wines, and in the space where busy sous and the dining room staff stand for a moment, each one sips and tastes, selecting the deepest Cabernet Sauvignon, still high in tannins even after a few years, for the venison.  Everyone in the little hallway tastes, then agrees. “For the pheasant, we have a Cote du Rhones,” says someone, possibly a sous. And again, a glass is passed, a bite is chewed and a selection is made.

At La Coquille of Manhasset, a similar feat of tastes and viands intended for a rarified, but knowledgeable audience, is being prepared. The fireplace is glowing, and the ovens and roasting pits are equally hot, prepared and full of the preferences of hungry (modern) kings, salivating for the authentic cuisine of France.

Wild Boar, Farm-raised Venison and Pheasant and the Confit of Duck appear in the fall menu, constituting a change in direction for the venerable restaurant, established in 1969.

“She’s 38,” says Michael Miller, the new propriétaire of the establishment, of his “Lady.”  The dining room has hardly changed in all the years since she first offered the Cuisine of France, but now she is ready for a change.  

“She’s still young and vibrant, a true well of experience and joy to the community,” Miller continues.  “We talk about her as if she were a regal lady, someone whose identity is careful and surprising, and who attracts us still to her side with her wit and femininity.”  

For the transformation of the restaurant, be looking out for changes to the decor, and an institution of a cozy dining room, perhaps most recognizeable by the kings of France for its comfort and elegance.  

“A memorable dining experience is often a seduction, blending our needs for nourishment with needs for luxury,” says Miller.  

The transformation of this lady promises both.

La Coquille Restaurant is open seven days, from five in the afternoon, except for early  Sunday Supper, when La Coquille is open at four p.m.